http://arnoldservice.com/run_capacitors.htm
What to look for when a capacitor is bad: The Air conditioner outdoor unit will not come on. Either the outdoor fan does not run, the compressor does not run, or both the fan and the compressor do not run. You checked and reset your breaker and the outdoor unit still does not come on. You can here a little humming sound inside the unit which is the low voltage contactor humming. You pull the disconnect, and disconnect the power to your outdoor air conditioning unit. Please make sure your electrical power is off before working on any air conditioning equipment. You take the door or cover off your outdoor unit's control box and find a bad, swollen run capacitor.
The EPA stopped allowing manufacturers to produce capacitors with cancer-causing PCB's. Since they stopped allowing the use of PCBs, the capacitors now have a shelf life.
Many times I see capacitor problems that will not allow the compressor or the fan to come on. Many times you can clearly see that the capacitor is bad because it is swollen or even blown apart with capacitor oil everywhere!
Sometimes, you will need a special meter to test the microfarad (MFD) or UF rating. "MFD" and "UF" mean the same thing, "Microfarad". Many times you will see an "UF" rating on the capacitor instead of "MFD." Yes, these two abbreviations mean the same.
Most of the time you can tell that a capacitor is bad because it will be swollen up. Please see the picture below for the comparison between a good and bad dual run capacitor. We call them dual because the capacitor helps run both the fan and the compressor.
http://arnoldservice.com/run_capacitors.htm
“It only took a $20 Capacitor* to Fix this Unit . . .”
*(AC05-01)
One (1) uF equals 1,000 nF (AC05-02). [[ 1,000 nF = 1 uF ]] ; “UF” means “microfarad”
(this page also contains detailed pictures of a “Reciprocating Compressor”))
Capacitor Conversions
“nF = nanofarads = 1*10-9 Farads” [ 0.000 000 001 Farads]
“uF = microfarads = 1* 10-6 Farads” [ 0.000 001 Farads]
Therefore, 1000 nanofarads (NFD) = 1 microfarad (MFD)
http://arnoldservice.com/air_conditioning_parts.htm
Problem #1: Outdoor condensing fan motor has stopped running. This problem could be caused by a bad motor run capacitor. Please see our Motor Run Capacitor [mrc] page to purchase a new capacitor. click here for Motor Run Capacitors.
If your motor capacitor is not the problem, then more than likely you need a new motor. We do not sell condenser fan motors. Is the fan blade tight, stiff or hard to turn? If the fan blade is hard to turn then you probably need a new motor.
Problem #2: Air conditioner compressor will not start. When power is applied to the air conditioning outdoor unit the fan starts, but you hear a sound like the compressor is trying to start, "UGGG"..., for about 5 to 10 seconds and then all you hear is the outdoor condenser fan running. The compressor is locked and will not start. What is happening is the compressor is trying to start, but, because the compressor motor is locked, it tries to start for a few seconds and then -- because of the high amperage being drawn -- goes off because of an ‘internal overload’. The ‘internal overload’ protects the compressor windings from overheating and burning up.
I see this many times during the start of the air conditioning season. Some compressors just have a hard time starting after sitting all winter long. Some compressors are locked up so bad that I can not start them and must tell my customer that they need a new compressor or new air conditioning system. Many times I can get the compressor started again without having to buy a new compressor or new air conditioning system by using the device that I sell below. It is called, "Super-Boost." I keep two or three of these on the truck. They have saved many of my customers from having to buy new air conditioning systems. Below is a description of the "Super Boost" with an opportunity for you to purchase…
Problem #3: This problem is probably the second most common problem that I see every summer. The problem is a bad compressor or fan run capacitor [frc]. The Air conditioner outdoor unit will not come on. Either the outdoor fan does not run, the compressor does not run, or both the fan and the compressor do not run. You checked and reset your breaker and the outdoor unit still does not come on. You can hear a little humming sound, sometimes a "Uggg" inside the unit when power is applied. The "Uggg" is the compressor trying to start. You might hear the low voltage contactor humming. You pull the disconnect and disconnect the power to your outdoor air conditioning unit. Please make sure your electrical power is off before working on any air conditioning equipment. You take the door or cover off your outdoor unit's control box and find a bad, swollen run capacitor. EPA stopped allowing manufacturers to produce capacitors with cancer causing PCB's. Since they stopped allowing the use of PCB's the capacitors now have a shelf life. Many times I see capacitor problems that will not allow the compressor or the fan to come on. Many times you can clearly see that the capacitor is bad because it is swollen or even blown apart with capacitor oil everywhere! Sometimes you need a special meter to test the microfarad (MFD) rating. Most of the time you can tell the capacitor is bad because it is swollen up. Please see the picture below for the comparison between a good and bad dual run capacitor. We call them, "Dual" because the capacitor helps run both the fan and the compressor.
Copeland ZR61K3-PFV-930 Scroll Compressor 230/60/1Phase
eBay : $800 + $85 shipping
http://cgi.ebay.com/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7630035603
This Copeland ZR61K3-PFV-930 Scroll Compressor 230 / 60 / 1 Phase
is used by all Major Air Conditioning Manufactures such as Carrier, Bryant, Payne, Rheem, Ruud, Concord, Lennox etc.
HCFC, R-22 || 60 Hz, 1 - Phase, 208 / 230 V
Air Conditioning Capacity ( Btu / h ): 62000 @ 45 / 130 V
Power (Watts) 5450 @ 45 / 130 V
Current (Amps): 24.8
Power Pack for your compressor: $70
http://www.expertappliance.com/american-standard-heating-3.html
(cool!) All about circuits: the book
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_6/chpt_3/14.html
(how to use multimeter / ohmmeter)
Good stuff on multimeters:
http://www.xoxideforums.com/power-supplies/74833-how-test-your-psu.html
GOOGLE SEARCH: “ measure open circuit Battery Voltage”
confusing:
http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/dec97/878584183.Eg.r.html
Two of the characteristics you will want to measure for your batteries are open-circuit voltage and short-circuit current. Open-circuit voltage is measured simply by measuring the voltage across the terminals of a battery that doesn't have anything connected to it. Since a voltmeter has a very high resistance, it will not affect your battery much, and you measure open-circuit resistance by connecting the voltmeter probes directly to the battery terminals. If you get a negative reading, swap the two leads. Note on using voltmeters: since your voltmeter is actually measuring the difference in (electrical) potential energy between two points in your circuit, you always measure voltage by connecting the leads of the meter to two different points in your circuit, for example, two different ends of an electrical component (like your battery).
Short-circuit current is measured by using a piece of wire to "short-circuit" the two battery terminals. This tells you the maximum amount of current that you can get out of your battery. Since an ammeter has nearly zero electrical resistance, it acts a lot like a piece of wire, so you can measure short-circuit current the same way you do open-circuit voltage: just connect the two leads of your meter to the two terminals of your battery. Note on measuring current: current is a measure of the number of electrons passing one spot in a given period of time, so to measure current you cut a wire in your circuit and connect the two leads of the milliammeter to the two cut ends of the wire. Or you can replace the wire with the meter and its leads.
http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/dec97/878584183.Eg.r.html
less confusing:
http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/gen06/gen06242.htm
The confusion here is mistaking a voltage reading for an amperage
reading. A multimeter can read either volts or amps at a given
time, depending on which option is selected on the multimeter's
dial. Since a battery is DC (direct current) you can set the dial
to the 1.5V option and read the voltage of the battery. A "AA"
battery should run about 1.5 volts, depending on the specific brand
of the battery as well as how old it is.
Amperage, however, depends on more than just the battery--it depends
on the resistance through the circuit. Ohm's Law states V = IR,
where V is voltage, I is current (measured in amps) and R is
resistance (measured in ohms). Using a multimeter to measure amps
is of no use because you would only be measuring the internal
resistance of the multimeter itself. You have to put the battery
into a circuit and then take a reading before and after the resistor
to measure the current across the resistor.
http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/gen06/gen06242.htm
Assessing a battery's health
A lead-acid battery has two key attributes that tell how "healthy" it is:
1) State of charge (SoC): The SoC, which indicates how much charge can be delivered, is expressed as a percentage of a battery's rated capacity (that is, the SoC of a new battery).
2) State of health (SoH): The SoH indicates how much charge the battery can store.
State of charge SoC
State-of-charge indication may be thought of as the battery's "fuel gauge." Many methods exist for the calculation of SoC, but the two most common methods are open-circuit voltage measurement and coulometric measurement (also called coulomb counting).
1) Open-circuit voltage (VOC) : A linear relationship exists between a battery's open-circuit voltage, where no load is applied, and its state of charge. This method of calculation has two fundamental limitations: To calculate the SoC, the battery must be open-circuited, with no loads connected; and this measurement is only accurate after a considerable stabilization period.
These limitations make the VOC method unsuitable for in-line calculation of SoC. It is regularly used in auto shops, where the battery is removed and a voltmeter is used to measure the voltage across the positive and negative terminals of the battery.
2) Coulometric measurement: This approach to SoC determination uses coulomb counting to integrate current over time. That makes it possible to use this measurement for real-time calculation of SoC, even when the battery is under load conditions. However, the coulometric-measurement method is prone to cumulative errors over time.
A combination of both open-circuit voltage and coulomb counting is often used to calculate a battery's state of charge.
State of health (SoH)
The state of health reflects the general state of the battery and its ability to store charge, compared with a new battery. SoH calculations are, by their very nature, extremely complex and dependent on the understanding of a battery's chemistry and environment. A battery's SoH is influenced by numerous factors, including charge acceptance, internal resistance, voltage, self-discharge and temperature.
These factors are generally considered difficult to measure in real-time, such as in the automotive environment. The best indicator of SoH occurs during the cranking phase (starting of the engine), when the battery is under the most strain.
,,,
http://www.automotivedesignline.com/196601217?printableArticle=true
(http://www.automotivedesignline.com/howto/196601217)
http://www.powerdesigners.com/powercheq.htm
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